Wrapping up

Home Sweet Home

Its lovely to be home.  High on my list are catching up with family and friends, a tannin rich shiraz, Frank’s spaghetti bolognese, Mum’s roast lamb, a thought provoking night at the theatre and a Swans game.  Its also nice to be cold and need to snuggle under bedclothes.  I won’t miss being in a constant film of perspiration

I will miss easy, genuine smiles, marguerites on a Monday, fabulous local food and the adventure of new tastes and eating alone, making a difference every day, and being in a country where family and relationships come first and people have a dignified serenity despite their significant poverty.

I am going to hang on to my Cambodian experience, by:

• Keeping perspective
• Smiling more than frowning
• Keeping language simple
• Taking more time to really listen, and
• Talking to strangers
• AW KAHN.   Thank you Cambodia

Last days at CARE - so much to do  - so little time

As usual time has evaporated and my last two days at work are very busy.  Minimal meetings at least – so I can get on with finalising the strategy document and the brochure copy.  Thursday and Friday are tough tines at CARE.  The organisation is restructuring around its focus areas, in the past CARE has been stretched across many projects.  The new strategy defines women as the key focus, and also rural poor and ethnic minorities.  These groups are amongst the most marginalised in Cambodia.

But this also means that resources not core to these areas are no longer required, and over the two days people whose jobs are affected are advised.  The leadership team has reluctantly come to these decisions; they are professional, focussed and empathetic, but its tough.

Working for an NGO has a certain prestige in a country like Cambodia.  It pays better than government jobs, and the conditions and training opportunities are generally good.  I’ve been impressed with my local colleagues – they are all so talented and committed.  Naturally they are upset that their jobs have been made redundant.

Working for an NGO may be a converted job, but pay generally remains low in Cambodia.  The financial rewards are minimal compared to western standards.  I saw a position vacant in the Cambodia Daily for a Translator to work for the UN on the Khmer Rouge trial – what an interesting job that would be.  The applicant had to be highly qualified, and fluent in Khmer, English and French.  Remuneration = $US29,581 pa.  And the UN is one of the highest payers!

For those more interested in the environment, WWF is seeking a Regional Marketing Director for the Mekong based in Laos.  This role will work towards conserving 600,000m2 of mainland Asia’s most biologically diverse, economically significant and threatened forests and rivers which are located in the Mekong region and home to more than 300 people.

There is so much to be done in Cambodia, and any wealth of opportunities for expats to be involved in meaningful work.  There are 3000 NGOs in Cambodia.  That may be overstated (counting sporting and school initiatives), but even if 1000 is closer to the correct number that’s a lot of NGOs

And just about every benevolent group ever conceived is working here.   One of the more interesting is the Mennonite Central Committee (MCC).   MCC in Cambodia envisions seeing Gods will fulfil for the resolution of hope and dignity and the transformations of suffering into wholeness for the people of Cambodia.  Practically speaking I think they would prefer food, clean water and education over god!  MCC claims to work with locals – but of their 32 personnel 18 are expat.  A couple of evangelical MCC missionaries have even gone as far as buying tuk tuks in Siem Reap.  A sermon and a ride home!!  I guess you can’t close the door on them!

All nations, even the Maltese are present.  MINT is the worldwide relief agency of the Sovereign Order of Malta.  But my favourite NGO (after CARE of course) is Pour Un Sourie d’Enfant which translates to  “for the smile of a child”.  Founded by the French, “sourie” works with at risk children.  With 607 staff, only 4 are expats, good sustainable development.

I’ve been in Cambodia during an interesting time for NGOs,.  The government is proposing a new NGO Law.  This law will place significant restrictions on NGOs and enable tho government to have more control, and indeed earn money from NGO activities.  The US has warned the Cambodian Government that aid levels could be frozen if the draft NGO law is adopted in its current form.  US Aid are vocal in their lobbying – with US Aid saying the law would educe civil society’s ability to operate freely in Cambodia.  Despite the fact that the US is Cambodia s 3^rd largest bilateral donor, the Cambodian government si not listening and proceeding with eth law

Bonding experiences - food!



Presenting the Strategy



Up at first light to polish my presentation.  At 10am I presented my communications strategy, the results of one month’s work, to the CARE management team and other relevant staff.  I’ve been here long enough to be consciously incompetent when it comes to really understanding the development sector and how things work in Cambodia so I was quite apprehensive.  But I do know communications so keep reminding myself of that.  It must be interesting to be a Consultant where you work across many varied businesses and don’t really develop intimate knowledge of any.  Knowing telco, marketing and sponsorship as well as I do, this assignment has really pushed me outside my comfort zone and I’ve enjoyed that.

The end of my presentation is acknowledged with flattering words from Stav – and cake (chocolate mousse cake with a passionfruit topping – delicious!) Food must be the world’s most prevalent bonding experience.  Cake is not traditional in Khmer cuisine, but my Khmer colleagues have embraced this sweet treat.  Seyda told me her 20 year old uni student brother and his friends regularly have bake – offs! 

Every meeting deserves cake!

The bonding experience of a meal shared continues over lunch.  A small group of us enjoy, hummous, tabouleh, kibbeh, eggplant, and feta cheese lady fingers at a swish Lebanese restaurant, Le Cedre.  Over lunch Jan tells the story of a shared meal last weekend.  A Dutchman, Jan prepared a Eurpoean goulash for his local friends.  They were so convinced they would not like it they arrived prepared with backup supplies of familiar food.  At the end of the meal no goulash was left!



My dinner was solo.  A Khmer chicken curry at the local next door.  Jusr delicious.  Khmer curries are vey runny – amost like a soup.  This traditional dish is a yellow curry thanks to the tumeric, and spiced with a lovely combination of aromatic herbs including star anise making it quite different to Thai curries.  Its also not too spicy.  I love it and will be seeking out recipes. 

Arriving back to Wonderland I find my hotel staff clambering out of a small car.  Its some small boxy Russian vehicle.  They look like a Guinness book of records attempt in progress as they all climb out!

They’ve been out to buy ice-creams that they share with the guards.  It’s a jolly yummy bonding experience.

Thank goodness I have my local version of the Magnum in my freezer.  Fall asleep dreaming of Mum’s baked dinners – it’s got to be lamb!

Sweet!









The price of cabbages (and frocks!)

4,000 riel is US$1.  But how much is a cabbage?  Or a kilo of rambutans?  Technology is helping farmers and traders in Cambodia provinces.  Today Bill and I had a lunch meeting with 2 gents from CAVAC, a development agency focussing on agriculture.  They have developed an online market information system  that facilitates agricultural trade. Data on  the market price for fruit and veg is distributed via the web ( used primarily by Govt agencies and NGOs) , via SMS ( the choice of traders) , and vis radio ( for farmers who do not have mobiles)   Cabbage is the vegetable traders are most interested in, followed by cucumbers, carrots and tomatoes.  Rambutans are the most enquired about fruit, followed by mangosteens, longans, apples and the smelly durian!  Poor old potatoes and bananas generate the least interest!!  Access to this information is empowering farmers and traders.

I’m at the meting to give Bill some advice on how CARE might work with a telco to set up a similar system for its rural programs.  The issues are on the data collection and management side, distribution is the easy part.  We decide it would be better to partner with another NGO like CAVAC rather than re-invent the wheel,

Most of the day was spent working on my presentation for tomorrow.  After work Anne-Maree and I check out the price of frocks at Ambre – Phnom Penh’s most beautiful dress shop.  More stimulating content than cabbages!  We analyse our purchases over a nice salad and a cold dry white wine at Anne-Maree’s dining table. 

Lest We Forget

ANZAC Day has special significance when you are overseas.  At home it is an occasion to pay respects to Australian men and women who have died for our country.  Overseas it’s that, but also an opportunity to reflect on everything about home and being Australian.  Australians are everywhere in Cambodia doing all sorts of amazing things.  There are Australians like Stav leading major NGOs, Susie who works with the Australian Federal Police and Cambodian authorities persecuting Australian’s involved in illegal sex activity, and countless Aussie entrepreneurs with businesses, restaurants and the like creating jobs and adding to the vibrancy of this lovely country.  I can’t help but feel very proud to be Australian.  I think its our “give anything a try” attitude, easy going nature, and tolerance that helps us adapt in foreign circumstances. 

The service also reinforces that I am ready to go home.  I miss Frank and Mum & Dad and Lisa and her family.  I miss being able to communicate freely without language barriers, and I miss knowing how much to pay for things ( bargaining is fun when you are on holidays – its tiring when its every single commercial transaction!)  Being here has been an amazing opportunity but now I am looking forward to coming home next weekend.

The service is poignant.  Anne Maree & Tim’s kids have official roles and there is a great sense of inclusiveness and community.  The Australian Ambassador to Cambodia Penny Richards, and the ex Governor General of New Zealand, stand side by side to lay wreaths.  A representative from the Royal Cambodian Armed Forces plays the Last Post.  It’s worth the 4am alarm call this morning.  My apartment’s security guard looks at me quizzically when I arrive home for breakfast at 6am.  He was asleep when I left!  It’s too hard to explain – I wonder what rumours will do the rounds of my home away from home Wonderland Villas?

You take fuzzy photos when you have tears in your eyes!
Remembrance shrine, Australian Embassy, Phnom Penh ANZAC Day

I do try to explain.  ANZAC is a hard concept to convey for those uninitiated to Australian history.  ANZ bank is here, building a high profile for their local brand ANZ Royal;.  My Khmer security guard sees ANZ anything and thinks of the bank.  Ah – the power of the brand!  To try and add meaning I try associated words. “Army”  is understood, but  for my friend it infers that Australian troops have arrived in Cambodia.

There is currently a conflict on the Cambodian Thai border in the north.  Both countries claim the ancient  Preah Vhear Temple on  the Cambodian side.  The dispute has been ongoing for many years, however 12 people have been killed in the last 3 days as tension has escalated.  I’ve seen some news of this on the Australia Channel,  but nothing on CNN or Sky or BBC.  Does the world know or care?

My after work meeting with an aid representative from the Australian Embassy provides some insight as to why the situation has recently escalated.  As teh election  in Thailand approaches, the "yellow” conservative national party is under threat by the “reds”.  Many will remember the chaos in Bangkok in the last few years as the liberal reds have gained momentum.  The theory is that the yellows have stirred the situation to create diversion from everyday issues, but also to provide a nationalistic compelling event to unite Thais.  Sounds a bit like children overboard.

Early night after my early start.

Daughters of Cambodia

Awake early on Saturday, bought the papers ( Cambodia Daily & Phnom Penh post are the 2 English newspapers) and had an indulgent breakfast at Comme de la Maison: juice de l’orange, ouefs avec fromage et jamon, et the de menthe. 

This weekend I am going to be a tourist.  I still haven’t seen the main sites of Phnom Penh – Wat Phnom is first on the itinerary.  “Phnom” means hill.  Funny that a town is named after a hill – by geographic standards its a very unremarkable hill.  Much of the temple is closed, but for me the main attraction is watching the locals.  Coming to the temple is both  a spiritual and social experience.  A family monkeys lives on the slopes of the hill providing great amusement  for the local children.   The cities last elephant poses for photos and is docile as she carries tourists for ride – poor old girl.

Steps up to Wat Phnom ("Temple on Hill")

Cute  - but aggro if you have food!  One of the many monkeys at Wat Phnom

Next stop is the National Museum.  The building is a beautiful traditional Khmer house with lush tropical gardens..  Inside are many treasures from the Angkorian period – well researched and documented.  Its hot.  “Daughters of Cambodia”  is nearby and provides respite.

The National Museum - beautiful Khmer architecture

This shop in St 178 provides options for women leaving the sex industry.  They rescue women & girls who have been trafficked, and train them in their various business ventures: sewing and jewellery making for the shop, working as beauty therapists in the nail bar, and cooking plus service in the café.  It’s a lovely atmosphere and you can feel the supportive environment.  The women have serene demeanours and easy smiles.  I wonder what there lives were like prior, and how long it took them to reach this point. 

Continuing the site seeing its off to a local shadow puppets show which was very charming.  The Sovanna Phum Theatre was some distance from my neighbourhood and the ride there quite an education.  I passed many bars full of the "working" daughters of Cambodia (otherwise known as taxi girls).  I haven’t been in girlie bar areas after dark and its depressing.  Judging by the number of parked motorbikes and cars these mega-bars are doing big business.

A huge thunderstorm around 9pm washed everything clean.

Shadow puppets - I've no idea about the story - but the locals loved it!

Sunday 24 – Easter Sunday.  Started the day with a lovely brunch at Stav’s.  Thanks to the beautiful Belgian chocolate boutique on St 240 I arrive with a chocolate bunny.  Its duality is perfect – a chocolate bunny to Christian eyes, and sweet representation of year of the rabbit to the Buddhists.

I’ve been unsuccessful in finding a Christian church for an Easter service.  Instead I pay respects at the Silver Pagoda within the Grand Palace complex.  This is Phnom Penh’s main attraction and deserves its popularity.  Sunday is a great day to visit as many locals are having a day out there too.  Extended familles visit and compose many happy photos, the elderly people are often dressed in traditional costume.  I imagine I'm with my family too :).

The Grand Palace - no photos allowed inside

Proving I was there. Angkor bell at Grand Palace

The weekend finishes with some retail action. Just like anywhere in the world, plenty of Cambodia's daughters are out shopping at Sorya one of 2 shopping malls in town, and at the Central Market.  On the top floor of Sorya is a roller skating rink.  Teenagers wheel by and strut their stuff.  One young 20ish Khmer girl holds everyones attention.  This daughter of Cambodia is an excelent skater and quite a show off; she can move those skates and she's gorgeous  Evryone is watching her and she plays to the attention.  I wonder what her life is like?  Things are getting better for women and girls in Cambodia all the time, yet there is still so much to be done.

This daughter of Australia is forgetting how to cook!  I self cater tonight - duck egg omlette.  Tastes like chicken egg.  

Universal women's language - shoes!

“A women puts on shoes and she changes”.  Manolo Blahnik.  He’s  right – its true all over the world

After my philosophising about language earlier this week – tonight I discovered the common language of women – shoes.  Those who know me well will not be surprised of my quest to seek out beautiful shoe shops worldwide!  So when Anne-Maree said VDC had a 50% off sale I was there.  50% off at VDC means shoes for less than $20.  Now they are not Manolos or Jimmy Choos and certainly not my favourite Christian Louboutain – but they are fun, fashionable knock-offs made in Malaysia.

VDC Shoes approx 6pm.  These girls can shop!

The David Jones post Christmas sale is quiet compared to this!  To get in you need to navigate through a gaggle of motor bikes, be admitted by the doorman, and then go for your life with 100s of Cambodian ladies.  These girls are serious about their shoes.  I stand head and shoulders taller than them all, a disadvantage as I have further to reach down to the shelves. However  I can reach the boxes stacked on higher shelves, but I am chastised for this!   I buy a lovely pair of cream satin sandals embellished with tasteful bling.  Walking home I can’t hekp but think about the tremendous divide in Cmbodia.  Phnom Penh really is a bubble – Cambodian women in rural areas are hardly in a position to speak the language of shoes.

My working day was busy with the communications strategy and locking in meetings for next week.  Its going to be hectic – not surprising lots is falling into place as my assignment draws to an end.  There is still so much to do…………….

Thursday 21

Sights and sounds

The CARE car was late collecting me this morning so I was able to observe peak hour in my street..  At the same time I was being observed by an expectant tuk-tuk driver hoping for a fare. 

Stand on the street long enough and Phnom Penh will come to you.  My apartments’ security guard buys his breakfast from a street vendor – he calls it porridge – it looks delicious.  A beverage cart follows with all sorts of soft drink, juice, coffee and tea.  A man sells coconuts from a big basket on wheels, and the ubiquitous recyclers drag their carts and sound their horn letting people know to bring their rubbish out.  Their horns sound like a squeaky children’s toy.   However how they are earning a living is not much fun.  I make eye contact and acknowledge them all and am rewarded with warm smiles. 

The day continues on a local theme as I join my Khmer colleagues at their favourite lunch haunt.  This is the first time I’ve eaten in one of the makeshift restaurants.  It doesn’t have a  name and requires great tenacity and courage to cross many lanes of traffic on

Norodon Boulevard

to get there.  Its worth it.  We share Lok Lak American, a national dish (minus the American additions) of sliced grilled beef, lemongrass and salad vegetabes  and a peppery limey dipping sauce ( the American version has fried and an egg!), a chicken and vegetable stir fry, and chicken and morning glory soup.  Its delicious and it costs 8,000 riel each ( US $2)!

After work its back to Pilates.  I’ve stiffened up again due to not enoght stretching exercise during the new year break and holiday with Frank.  It feels good.  Early night

The great language divide

Wed 20

When English is your first language you don’t think too much about it.  I often feel inadequate when I meet people with 2 or more languages.  Imagine how Optus employees would go if all of our Singaporean colleagues were not proficient in English?!  And I think about all of those international telecoms conferences, indeed, any international business, where English is the default language no matter your native tongue.  I am lucky to be a native English speaker because I doubt my capacity to master more than one language proficiently.

For non-English speakers language is a barrier.  Several episodes today got me thinking about language. 

Firstly  - jargon.  To compound the challenge for non English speakers, in the developed world our business jargon is a further obstacle.  It’s hard enough to master a language and its nuance, let alone a host of three letter acronyms and made up words. 

This afternoon I presented my draft Communications Strategy.  I am delighted that it was well received.  But of course my paper is full of jargon.  I have been teasing my colleagues here about the amount of jargon the development sector uses – and here I was finding myself baffling everyone.  A section in my plan is called “Collateral List”, which is just an audit of all CAREs current comms materials, was interpreted in the collateral damage sense!!  We had quite some debate!  Particularly sensitive given the term “collateral damage’ was first coined by the US miliary during the Vietnam War to refer to friendly fire.  Curious – I check “collateral” in the dictionary and nowhere is it defined as marketing materials – brochures, fliers etc.  Did we marketeers make it up to make ourselves sound more clever?  Lesson to self was to keep it simple and not let jargon further complicate language.   KISS (oops – another acronym!!) 

Next was the feeling about access to English being a great dividing factor.  This evening I attended a TEDx session at Meta House.  Now I am a great a fan of TED so was pleased to see the mini version TEDx active in Phnom Penh.  However, this was not quite the TED presentations quality I am used to – 2 were self indulgent expressions by 20 somethings  who had found the meaning of life.  (I know – I sound middle-aged!)   But the last speaker was a young Cambodian woman, a blogger Kounila Keo.  http://blueladyblog.com/  She talked about social media and its impact on Cambodian youth.   In the Kingdom of Cambodia freedom of expression is not outlawed, but culturally its not assumed as ones right either.  As well as past (and present) government oppression, there are also the issues of hierarchy and maintaining face.  It was encouraging to see how technology is liberating young Khmers. 

But the Q&A provided another insight.  Kounila blogs in English and she was asked why not in Khmer?  Does she not want to share her experiences with her fellow Cambodians?  She seemed to be a bit uncomfortable with the question, and responded that she wants to connect with the maximum number of people and Khmer is too limiting.  Her choice is consistent with that of most educated Khmers.  I can’t help feeling some anxiety however about emerging language elitism – the English language haves and have nots, and the loss of local language as English is a step up most people in the developing world covert.

But maybe, hopefully, it will all mean a richer world community with more multi-lingual people facilitating greater understanding and harmony

Body language was also on my mind.  Today I farewelled Frank who is on his way back to Australia.  My performance at the airport, tears & hugs, demonstrated love and sadness no matter your language.