Wrapping up

Home Sweet Home

Its lovely to be home.  High on my list are catching up with family and friends, a tannin rich shiraz, Frank’s spaghetti bolognese, Mum’s roast lamb, a thought provoking night at the theatre and a Swans game.  Its also nice to be cold and need to snuggle under bedclothes.  I won’t miss being in a constant film of perspiration

I will miss easy, genuine smiles, marguerites on a Monday, fabulous local food and the adventure of new tastes and eating alone, making a difference every day, and being in a country where family and relationships come first and people have a dignified serenity despite their significant poverty.

I am going to hang on to my Cambodian experience, by:

• Keeping perspective
• Smiling more than frowning
• Keeping language simple
• Taking more time to really listen, and
• Talking to strangers
• AW KAHN.   Thank you Cambodia

Last days at CARE - so much to do  - so little time

As usual time has evaporated and my last two days at work are very busy.  Minimal meetings at least – so I can get on with finalising the strategy document and the brochure copy.  Thursday and Friday are tough tines at CARE.  The organisation is restructuring around its focus areas, in the past CARE has been stretched across many projects.  The new strategy defines women as the key focus, and also rural poor and ethnic minorities.  These groups are amongst the most marginalised in Cambodia.

But this also means that resources not core to these areas are no longer required, and over the two days people whose jobs are affected are advised.  The leadership team has reluctantly come to these decisions; they are professional, focussed and empathetic, but its tough.

Working for an NGO has a certain prestige in a country like Cambodia.  It pays better than government jobs, and the conditions and training opportunities are generally good.  I’ve been impressed with my local colleagues – they are all so talented and committed.  Naturally they are upset that their jobs have been made redundant.

Working for an NGO may be a converted job, but pay generally remains low in Cambodia.  The financial rewards are minimal compared to western standards.  I saw a position vacant in the Cambodia Daily for a Translator to work for the UN on the Khmer Rouge trial – what an interesting job that would be.  The applicant had to be highly qualified, and fluent in Khmer, English and French.  Remuneration = $US29,581 pa.  And the UN is one of the highest payers!

For those more interested in the environment, WWF is seeking a Regional Marketing Director for the Mekong based in Laos.  This role will work towards conserving 600,000m2 of mainland Asia’s most biologically diverse, economically significant and threatened forests and rivers which are located in the Mekong region and home to more than 300 people.

There is so much to be done in Cambodia, and any wealth of opportunities for expats to be involved in meaningful work.  There are 3000 NGOs in Cambodia.  That may be overstated (counting sporting and school initiatives), but even if 1000 is closer to the correct number that’s a lot of NGOs

And just about every benevolent group ever conceived is working here.   One of the more interesting is the Mennonite Central Committee (MCC).   MCC in Cambodia envisions seeing Gods will fulfil for the resolution of hope and dignity and the transformations of suffering into wholeness for the people of Cambodia.  Practically speaking I think they would prefer food, clean water and education over god!  MCC claims to work with locals – but of their 32 personnel 18 are expat.  A couple of evangelical MCC missionaries have even gone as far as buying tuk tuks in Siem Reap.  A sermon and a ride home!!  I guess you can’t close the door on them!

All nations, even the Maltese are present.  MINT is the worldwide relief agency of the Sovereign Order of Malta.  But my favourite NGO (after CARE of course) is Pour Un Sourie d’Enfant which translates to  “for the smile of a child”.  Founded by the French, “sourie” works with at risk children.  With 607 staff, only 4 are expats, good sustainable development.

I’ve been in Cambodia during an interesting time for NGOs,.  The government is proposing a new NGO Law.  This law will place significant restrictions on NGOs and enable tho government to have more control, and indeed earn money from NGO activities.  The US has warned the Cambodian Government that aid levels could be frozen if the draft NGO law is adopted in its current form.  US Aid are vocal in their lobbying – with US Aid saying the law would educe civil society’s ability to operate freely in Cambodia.  Despite the fact that the US is Cambodia s 3^rd largest bilateral donor, the Cambodian government si not listening and proceeding with eth law

Bonding experiences - food!



Presenting the Strategy



Up at first light to polish my presentation.  At 10am I presented my communications strategy, the results of one month’s work, to the CARE management team and other relevant staff.  I’ve been here long enough to be consciously incompetent when it comes to really understanding the development sector and how things work in Cambodia so I was quite apprehensive.  But I do know communications so keep reminding myself of that.  It must be interesting to be a Consultant where you work across many varied businesses and don’t really develop intimate knowledge of any.  Knowing telco, marketing and sponsorship as well as I do, this assignment has really pushed me outside my comfort zone and I’ve enjoyed that.

The end of my presentation is acknowledged with flattering words from Stav – and cake (chocolate mousse cake with a passionfruit topping – delicious!) Food must be the world’s most prevalent bonding experience.  Cake is not traditional in Khmer cuisine, but my Khmer colleagues have embraced this sweet treat.  Seyda told me her 20 year old uni student brother and his friends regularly have bake – offs! 

Every meeting deserves cake!

The bonding experience of a meal shared continues over lunch.  A small group of us enjoy, hummous, tabouleh, kibbeh, eggplant, and feta cheese lady fingers at a swish Lebanese restaurant, Le Cedre.  Over lunch Jan tells the story of a shared meal last weekend.  A Dutchman, Jan prepared a Eurpoean goulash for his local friends.  They were so convinced they would not like it they arrived prepared with backup supplies of familiar food.  At the end of the meal no goulash was left!



My dinner was solo.  A Khmer chicken curry at the local next door.  Jusr delicious.  Khmer curries are vey runny – amost like a soup.  This traditional dish is a yellow curry thanks to the tumeric, and spiced with a lovely combination of aromatic herbs including star anise making it quite different to Thai curries.  Its also not too spicy.  I love it and will be seeking out recipes. 

Arriving back to Wonderland I find my hotel staff clambering out of a small car.  Its some small boxy Russian vehicle.  They look like a Guinness book of records attempt in progress as they all climb out!

They’ve been out to buy ice-creams that they share with the guards.  It’s a jolly yummy bonding experience.

Thank goodness I have my local version of the Magnum in my freezer.  Fall asleep dreaming of Mum’s baked dinners – it’s got to be lamb!

Sweet!









The price of cabbages (and frocks!)

4,000 riel is US$1.  But how much is a cabbage?  Or a kilo of rambutans?  Technology is helping farmers and traders in Cambodia provinces.  Today Bill and I had a lunch meeting with 2 gents from CAVAC, a development agency focussing on agriculture.  They have developed an online market information system  that facilitates agricultural trade. Data on  the market price for fruit and veg is distributed via the web ( used primarily by Govt agencies and NGOs) , via SMS ( the choice of traders) , and vis radio ( for farmers who do not have mobiles)   Cabbage is the vegetable traders are most interested in, followed by cucumbers, carrots and tomatoes.  Rambutans are the most enquired about fruit, followed by mangosteens, longans, apples and the smelly durian!  Poor old potatoes and bananas generate the least interest!!  Access to this information is empowering farmers and traders.

I’m at the meting to give Bill some advice on how CARE might work with a telco to set up a similar system for its rural programs.  The issues are on the data collection and management side, distribution is the easy part.  We decide it would be better to partner with another NGO like CAVAC rather than re-invent the wheel,

Most of the day was spent working on my presentation for tomorrow.  After work Anne-Maree and I check out the price of frocks at Ambre – Phnom Penh’s most beautiful dress shop.  More stimulating content than cabbages!  We analyse our purchases over a nice salad and a cold dry white wine at Anne-Maree’s dining table. 

Lest We Forget

ANZAC Day has special significance when you are overseas.  At home it is an occasion to pay respects to Australian men and women who have died for our country.  Overseas it’s that, but also an opportunity to reflect on everything about home and being Australian.  Australians are everywhere in Cambodia doing all sorts of amazing things.  There are Australians like Stav leading major NGOs, Susie who works with the Australian Federal Police and Cambodian authorities persecuting Australian’s involved in illegal sex activity, and countless Aussie entrepreneurs with businesses, restaurants and the like creating jobs and adding to the vibrancy of this lovely country.  I can’t help but feel very proud to be Australian.  I think its our “give anything a try” attitude, easy going nature, and tolerance that helps us adapt in foreign circumstances. 

The service also reinforces that I am ready to go home.  I miss Frank and Mum & Dad and Lisa and her family.  I miss being able to communicate freely without language barriers, and I miss knowing how much to pay for things ( bargaining is fun when you are on holidays – its tiring when its every single commercial transaction!)  Being here has been an amazing opportunity but now I am looking forward to coming home next weekend.

The service is poignant.  Anne Maree & Tim’s kids have official roles and there is a great sense of inclusiveness and community.  The Australian Ambassador to Cambodia Penny Richards, and the ex Governor General of New Zealand, stand side by side to lay wreaths.  A representative from the Royal Cambodian Armed Forces plays the Last Post.  It’s worth the 4am alarm call this morning.  My apartment’s security guard looks at me quizzically when I arrive home for breakfast at 6am.  He was asleep when I left!  It’s too hard to explain – I wonder what rumours will do the rounds of my home away from home Wonderland Villas?

You take fuzzy photos when you have tears in your eyes!
Remembrance shrine, Australian Embassy, Phnom Penh ANZAC Day

I do try to explain.  ANZAC is a hard concept to convey for those uninitiated to Australian history.  ANZ bank is here, building a high profile for their local brand ANZ Royal;.  My Khmer security guard sees ANZ anything and thinks of the bank.  Ah – the power of the brand!  To try and add meaning I try associated words. “Army”  is understood, but  for my friend it infers that Australian troops have arrived in Cambodia.

There is currently a conflict on the Cambodian Thai border in the north.  Both countries claim the ancient  Preah Vhear Temple on  the Cambodian side.  The dispute has been ongoing for many years, however 12 people have been killed in the last 3 days as tension has escalated.  I’ve seen some news of this on the Australia Channel,  but nothing on CNN or Sky or BBC.  Does the world know or care?

My after work meeting with an aid representative from the Australian Embassy provides some insight as to why the situation has recently escalated.  As teh election  in Thailand approaches, the "yellow” conservative national party is under threat by the “reds”.  Many will remember the chaos in Bangkok in the last few years as the liberal reds have gained momentum.  The theory is that the yellows have stirred the situation to create diversion from everyday issues, but also to provide a nationalistic compelling event to unite Thais.  Sounds a bit like children overboard.

Early night after my early start.

Daughters of Cambodia

Awake early on Saturday, bought the papers ( Cambodia Daily & Phnom Penh post are the 2 English newspapers) and had an indulgent breakfast at Comme de la Maison: juice de l’orange, ouefs avec fromage et jamon, et the de menthe. 

This weekend I am going to be a tourist.  I still haven’t seen the main sites of Phnom Penh – Wat Phnom is first on the itinerary.  “Phnom” means hill.  Funny that a town is named after a hill – by geographic standards its a very unremarkable hill.  Much of the temple is closed, but for me the main attraction is watching the locals.  Coming to the temple is both  a spiritual and social experience.  A family monkeys lives on the slopes of the hill providing great amusement  for the local children.   The cities last elephant poses for photos and is docile as she carries tourists for ride – poor old girl.

Steps up to Wat Phnom ("Temple on Hill")

Cute  - but aggro if you have food!  One of the many monkeys at Wat Phnom

Next stop is the National Museum.  The building is a beautiful traditional Khmer house with lush tropical gardens..  Inside are many treasures from the Angkorian period – well researched and documented.  Its hot.  “Daughters of Cambodia”  is nearby and provides respite.

The National Museum - beautiful Khmer architecture

This shop in St 178 provides options for women leaving the sex industry.  They rescue women & girls who have been trafficked, and train them in their various business ventures: sewing and jewellery making for the shop, working as beauty therapists in the nail bar, and cooking plus service in the café.  It’s a lovely atmosphere and you can feel the supportive environment.  The women have serene demeanours and easy smiles.  I wonder what there lives were like prior, and how long it took them to reach this point. 

Continuing the site seeing its off to a local shadow puppets show which was very charming.  The Sovanna Phum Theatre was some distance from my neighbourhood and the ride there quite an education.  I passed many bars full of the "working" daughters of Cambodia (otherwise known as taxi girls).  I haven’t been in girlie bar areas after dark and its depressing.  Judging by the number of parked motorbikes and cars these mega-bars are doing big business.

A huge thunderstorm around 9pm washed everything clean.

Shadow puppets - I've no idea about the story - but the locals loved it!

Sunday 24 – Easter Sunday.  Started the day with a lovely brunch at Stav’s.  Thanks to the beautiful Belgian chocolate boutique on St 240 I arrive with a chocolate bunny.  Its duality is perfect – a chocolate bunny to Christian eyes, and sweet representation of year of the rabbit to the Buddhists.

I’ve been unsuccessful in finding a Christian church for an Easter service.  Instead I pay respects at the Silver Pagoda within the Grand Palace complex.  This is Phnom Penh’s main attraction and deserves its popularity.  Sunday is a great day to visit as many locals are having a day out there too.  Extended familles visit and compose many happy photos, the elderly people are often dressed in traditional costume.  I imagine I'm with my family too :).

The Grand Palace - no photos allowed inside

Proving I was there. Angkor bell at Grand Palace

The weekend finishes with some retail action. Just like anywhere in the world, plenty of Cambodia's daughters are out shopping at Sorya one of 2 shopping malls in town, and at the Central Market.  On the top floor of Sorya is a roller skating rink.  Teenagers wheel by and strut their stuff.  One young 20ish Khmer girl holds everyones attention.  This daughter of Cambodia is an excelent skater and quite a show off; she can move those skates and she's gorgeous  Evryone is watching her and she plays to the attention.  I wonder what her life is like?  Things are getting better for women and girls in Cambodia all the time, yet there is still so much to be done.

This daughter of Australia is forgetting how to cook!  I self cater tonight - duck egg omlette.  Tastes like chicken egg.  

Universal women's language - shoes!

“A women puts on shoes and she changes”.  Manolo Blahnik.  He’s  right – its true all over the world

After my philosophising about language earlier this week – tonight I discovered the common language of women – shoes.  Those who know me well will not be surprised of my quest to seek out beautiful shoe shops worldwide!  So when Anne-Maree said VDC had a 50% off sale I was there.  50% off at VDC means shoes for less than $20.  Now they are not Manolos or Jimmy Choos and certainly not my favourite Christian Louboutain – but they are fun, fashionable knock-offs made in Malaysia.

VDC Shoes approx 6pm.  These girls can shop!

The David Jones post Christmas sale is quiet compared to this!  To get in you need to navigate through a gaggle of motor bikes, be admitted by the doorman, and then go for your life with 100s of Cambodian ladies.  These girls are serious about their shoes.  I stand head and shoulders taller than them all, a disadvantage as I have further to reach down to the shelves. However  I can reach the boxes stacked on higher shelves, but I am chastised for this!   I buy a lovely pair of cream satin sandals embellished with tasteful bling.  Walking home I can’t hekp but think about the tremendous divide in Cmbodia.  Phnom Penh really is a bubble – Cambodian women in rural areas are hardly in a position to speak the language of shoes.

My working day was busy with the communications strategy and locking in meetings for next week.  Its going to be hectic – not surprising lots is falling into place as my assignment draws to an end.  There is still so much to do…………….

Thursday 21

Sights and sounds

The CARE car was late collecting me this morning so I was able to observe peak hour in my street..  At the same time I was being observed by an expectant tuk-tuk driver hoping for a fare. 

Stand on the street long enough and Phnom Penh will come to you.  My apartments’ security guard buys his breakfast from a street vendor – he calls it porridge – it looks delicious.  A beverage cart follows with all sorts of soft drink, juice, coffee and tea.  A man sells coconuts from a big basket on wheels, and the ubiquitous recyclers drag their carts and sound their horn letting people know to bring their rubbish out.  Their horns sound like a squeaky children’s toy.   However how they are earning a living is not much fun.  I make eye contact and acknowledge them all and am rewarded with warm smiles. 

The day continues on a local theme as I join my Khmer colleagues at their favourite lunch haunt.  This is the first time I’ve eaten in one of the makeshift restaurants.  It doesn’t have a  name and requires great tenacity and courage to cross many lanes of traffic on

Norodon Boulevard

to get there.  Its worth it.  We share Lok Lak American, a national dish (minus the American additions) of sliced grilled beef, lemongrass and salad vegetabes  and a peppery limey dipping sauce ( the American version has fried and an egg!), a chicken and vegetable stir fry, and chicken and morning glory soup.  Its delicious and it costs 8,000 riel each ( US $2)!

After work its back to Pilates.  I’ve stiffened up again due to not enoght stretching exercise during the new year break and holiday with Frank.  It feels good.  Early night

The great language divide

Wed 20

When English is your first language you don’t think too much about it.  I often feel inadequate when I meet people with 2 or more languages.  Imagine how Optus employees would go if all of our Singaporean colleagues were not proficient in English?!  And I think about all of those international telecoms conferences, indeed, any international business, where English is the default language no matter your native tongue.  I am lucky to be a native English speaker because I doubt my capacity to master more than one language proficiently.

For non-English speakers language is a barrier.  Several episodes today got me thinking about language. 

Firstly  - jargon.  To compound the challenge for non English speakers, in the developed world our business jargon is a further obstacle.  It’s hard enough to master a language and its nuance, let alone a host of three letter acronyms and made up words. 

This afternoon I presented my draft Communications Strategy.  I am delighted that it was well received.  But of course my paper is full of jargon.  I have been teasing my colleagues here about the amount of jargon the development sector uses – and here I was finding myself baffling everyone.  A section in my plan is called “Collateral List”, which is just an audit of all CAREs current comms materials, was interpreted in the collateral damage sense!!  We had quite some debate!  Particularly sensitive given the term “collateral damage’ was first coined by the US miliary during the Vietnam War to refer to friendly fire.  Curious – I check “collateral” in the dictionary and nowhere is it defined as marketing materials – brochures, fliers etc.  Did we marketeers make it up to make ourselves sound more clever?  Lesson to self was to keep it simple and not let jargon further complicate language.   KISS (oops – another acronym!!) 

Next was the feeling about access to English being a great dividing factor.  This evening I attended a TEDx session at Meta House.  Now I am a great a fan of TED so was pleased to see the mini version TEDx active in Phnom Penh.  However, this was not quite the TED presentations quality I am used to – 2 were self indulgent expressions by 20 somethings  who had found the meaning of life.  (I know – I sound middle-aged!)   But the last speaker was a young Cambodian woman, a blogger Kounila Keo.  http://blueladyblog.com/  She talked about social media and its impact on Cambodian youth.   In the Kingdom of Cambodia freedom of expression is not outlawed, but culturally its not assumed as ones right either.  As well as past (and present) government oppression, there are also the issues of hierarchy and maintaining face.  It was encouraging to see how technology is liberating young Khmers. 

But the Q&A provided another insight.  Kounila blogs in English and she was asked why not in Khmer?  Does she not want to share her experiences with her fellow Cambodians?  She seemed to be a bit uncomfortable with the question, and responded that she wants to connect with the maximum number of people and Khmer is too limiting.  Her choice is consistent with that of most educated Khmers.  I can’t help feeling some anxiety however about emerging language elitism – the English language haves and have nots, and the loss of local language as English is a step up most people in the developing world covert.

But maybe, hopefully, it will all mean a richer world community with more multi-lingual people facilitating greater understanding and harmony

Body language was also on my mind.  Today I farewelled Frank who is on his way back to Australia.  My performance at the airport, tears & hugs, demonstrated love and sadness no matter your language. 

Contrasts

One of the things that has surprised me about Cambodia is the data that’s available.  A national census every 4 years ensures there is solid statistical information about the population.  I expected scant information at best.  Instead I have access to charts., tables, all sorts of statistical information  to help me complete the water and sanitation funding proposal.  This afternoon I was easily sidetracked analysing this information. 

Cambodia  has a rural population, only 20% live in urban areas.  There are 75 people per square kilometre.  So by Sth-East Asian standards its not too crowded.  The world average is 49 people per kilometre square – where as Asia is 130.  Cambodia’s neighbour Vietnam is much more crowded at 260, and the city nation of Singapore takes the prize at 7.013 people per square kilometre!!

The census data highlights the disparity between urban and rural, male and female.  The average adult literacy rate is 77.6%.  This breaks down to 85% for men, but only 70.9% for women.  Ratanakiri, the province that we are targeting for this funding, has the lowest literacy rate of all Cambodia at 45.9%.  Ethnic minorities are resident in this area exacerbating the problem.  The indigenous people do not speak Khmer – so CAREs focus on bilingual education in  this area is both necessary and practical.  Its pleasing that the government has  replicated this program giving CAREs efforts more scale.

The data also illustrates the extreme poverty and lack of infrastructure in Cambodia.  Only 26.4% of households have electricity as the main source of light, and whilst 44% have motorbikes and 64% bicycles, only 1% of households have internet access.

The most startling insight however is the way workforce participation is quoted.  The statistics report in terms of the “number of  persons over 5 years of age who are working".  5 year old workers! It's hard to get your head around this but here it is officially recognised and on the record

Tonight is Frank’s last night here so we have a lovely night out with Anne-Maree and Tim.  Happy hour at Raffles is very genteel and our dinner at Metro is fabulous.  The beef with red ants does indeed contain red ants – not sure that they were easily distinguished however amongst the lovely pepper and lemongrass flavours!

I fall asleep thinking again about the incredible contrasts in his lovely country.

Enjoying a nice NZ Sauv Blanc @ Metro with Anne-Maree

Frank & Tim.  I am going to miss Frank when he goes home tomorrow :(

Back to work

After a quiet weekend, Phnom Penh is noticeably busier this morning.  Traffic, shops open, school is back, and a general buzz.  The New Year holiday is over.  At the office its the usual chat about what everyone did during the break.  Most of the locals went to the home province to visit family.  There is a sense of sadness too.  Unfortunately one of our CARE colleagues in the Koh Kong office was killed in a car accident during the break.  It’s a small office in Koh Kong so naturally this will have an impact on the team.  Road accidents are the most common cause of death in Cambodia.  Its not surprising – no speed limit, overcrowding on motorbikes  (5 on a motorbike is still the most I have witnessed)) – not to mention people crammed into buses and trucks like sardines, and little observation of lanes and right of way, make for hairy conditions.  It’s a tragedy. I make sure I call Sathya and Aspara who were so helpful to me when I visited Koh Kong.

It’s a busy day in the office for me finishing stakeholder interviews for the communications strategy.  Its really important I take into the account the needs of CAREs target audiences.  I have some good discussions with CAREs partners at various UN Agencies.

Its really hot today.  I spend lunch checking on some Optus emails in the western café next to the office.  Not great food – but the aircon and the wifi compensate!

After work Frank & I take advantage of the fading daylight and power-walk around the parks.  Its around 5.45 and the streets are full of locals promenading and exercising.  In the park large groups gather for outdoor aerobics sessions.  As far as I can tell there is nothing official about this – just an enthusiastic, and relatively fit, young person who starts up the ghetto-blaster, gathers a crowd and starts a class.  Looks like fun and one would certainly not be intimidated by the fitness levels!   Further on we also stumble across some street performers whose show appears to be very hammed up lip synching to Khmer love songs.  Think of the most mournful country and western ballad you have ever heard, multiply that by 50, and you start to get the idea about the music!! 

Craving a change from Asian food, dinner is at “Tamarind”, a lovely Mediterranean, & middle eastern place on St 240, which is a “trendier” area of Phnom Penh.  The Tapas and chicken tangine are delicious.  Home via a walk by the river to assist the digestion!  Loads of Khmers are paying respects at the pagoda by the riverfront  - looks like the new year celebrations continue.

I'll finish today's post with a funny photo from Siem Reap for a sign prohibiting entry to those carrying hand grenades, guns, swords, syringes, and wearing pirate hats!!  I wonder what sort of people go to this nightclub? 

Tropcial paradise shared

Friday 15 – Rabbit Island

Its true that travelling gives one great self-insight.  Three things Rabbit Island reinforced about me to me:

1. I do like my creature comforts – I don’t consider running water a comfort – it’s a necessity,
2. I sometimes let romantic and idealistic notions cloud common sense, and
3. Once I’ve decided to do something its full steam ahead!

Frank and I spent a “memorable” 24 hours on Rabbit Island on Friday 15^th.  Caught up in fantasies or palm fringed beaches, fresh coconut juice and the sounds of ocean lulling me to sleep – I completely ignored self insights 1 & 2, and once there 3 kicked in to ensure I did not leave on the next long boat!!!

Koh Tonsay( I imagine lots of rice wine had been consumed prior to the Rabbit apparition – doesn’t look anything like a rabbit to me) is a small island 20 minutes by long boat off the Kep coast.  Its home to just 25 families and a little slice of tropical paradise.

Khmer New Year, however, is a notable exception.  Boat loads of day trippers were deposited onto the island, and every hut was full.  My fear had been partying backpackers, instead I got extended Khmer families intent on setting up their picnics in front of our hut.  To get the 10 meters from hut to waters edge you actually had to weave around picnic mats and kids swinging in hammocks.  At our guesthouse they weren’t just day trippers either – the partying continued well after dark.. Not peaceful.  Not happy Jann.

All my Cambodian relaxed and accepting disposition disappeared.  Our accommodation was one of the islands older huts – in this case established does not mean good – it means shabby and uncared for.  (Its called Yeah Meng – do not go there!)  My romantic notions did not expect 3 Stars, not even 1!  But I did not expect a ceiling height that would not allow you to stand upright, a dirty mattress on the floor, what was meant to be running water was a bucket load of sea water pumped in from the ocean, a generator behind the hut that made a racquet til 10.30pm, and the rubbish tip directly behind full of crab remnants and some very fishy odours!   Perhaps it was the fear of bed bugs and lice, perhaps it was the industrial deafness from the generator, or perhaps it was the putrid smell of rotting rubbish --- but this was not my most comfortable nights sleep!!  Despite the 34 degree temperature I sleep in a sarong and kaftan trying to ensure no skin touches the mattress.  In the end its just too hot so I strip off and take my chances.

Luxurious accomodation

Waiting for a boat to leave the Island!

Alas we are in one piece in the morning.  Somewhat tired, very dirty, but we lived to tell the story and I am proud that I did not bail out the afternoon prior on the last boat back to Kep.  Did contemplate the thought though!!  Self insight point 3 prevailed..

Notwithstanding – being there at the peak time for locals did afford some special insights.  Being invited to join in the dancing was terrific.  The Cambodians do this circular square dance sort of things around a table  - not much body and foot action – but lots of graceful hand motions go into this dance.  I copied the matriarch and did as best I could.  All good fun.  And then I was asked to dance by a young disabled Khmer man (he asked Franks permission of course) but then I felt completed to stay dancing!!   And Cambodian songs are long !!  I’ll be dining out on Rabbit Island stories fro some time!!!

On Saturday we drive back tio Phnom Penh and its deathly quite - everyone is at Kep and Rabbit Island!! Take care of domestics - loads of washing and a trip to Lucky Supermarket.    Anne-Mare & Tim and their kids are back from Australia now, so on Sunday we spend the day at their lovely house.  A beautiful relaxing day eating tropical fruit, enjoting a BBQ brunch, playing in the pool with their kids, attending to a sick bird, and drinking lots of wine of course with a real treat -- cheese Anne-Maree bought back from Oz!  Diary does not feature in the Khmer diet, so a ncie brie is a devoured greedily!  We collapse early after a big week.

Kep sur la mer

12 – 15 Apl

Along with half of Cambodia we are off to Kep to spend New Year by the seaside.  Normally Krong Kep is a sleepy seaside town.  Over the New Year period its holiday central.  The hotels are all full and day trippers swell the numbers.  Expats are doing their bit too, keeping us company at our lovely hotel, The Veranda,  Police man the main road into town and are charging an “entry fee” of 5000 riel (around $1.25).  Carloads of Khmers arrive and claim one of the waterfront platforms for their picnics.  Local vendors swoop and sell them bags of fresh boiled crabs which are devoured with other barbequed seafood.  They swim fully clothed and are having a grand time.

Kep’s heyday was early 1900s when the French elite headed to the seaside for some respite.  Kep sur la Mer was home to many beautiful colonial villas that these days are ghostly wrecks.  They were destroyed during the Khmer Rouge period and so far have not been restored.  Kep is famous for its seafood – especially crabs, and sunsets.  Neither disappoints. The crab market is right on the waters edge and the place to go to watch the trade in the catch of the day, and to eat crabs!  Built out over the water are a stretch of rudimentary seafood restaurants and their food is delicious.  The local specialty is crag stirfried with Kampot pepper.  Kampot is a nearby town and their pepper ( as anyone who watched Rick Steins Asian odyssey will know!), is world famous.  It is absolutely delicious and we have this meal every night we are in Kep!  Watching the sunset with a cold beer and crab – you can’t get much better than this!

Kep view from The Veranda - derilect French villass in prime position

Gulf of Thailand Sunset - Kep

Our days are spent exploring the province on motorbike.  Kep is only 35kms from the Vietnam border and its pretty countryside – lovely coastline, hills that are home to the pepper plantations, and more lush vegetation than other provinces.  We stay away from the main roads as the traffic is horrendous with Khmers heading home to visit family.  I stopped trying to count people in mini-buses.  Ingenious drivers leave the tail gate down and back door open in order to squeeze in more passengers, and who doesn’t fit inside the bus sits on the roof.  The ubiquitous motorbikes add to the chaos.  There is always the tranquil pool at the Veranda  for some relaxation at the end of the day.

http://www.veranda-resort.com/index.php

Kampot pepper - delicious!

Taree has the big prawn, Coffs the big banana - Kep has the big crab!

 

Roads less travelled - countryside inland of Kep

Can't find a picnic spot anywhere!



Life on water

Monday 11

We enjoyed Vanna’s guidance so much yesterday that we are back for more.  Today its an early start for Asia’s largest inland lake, Tonle Sap.  Now, during dry season, its home to 2,500 sq kms of water.  In the wet this grows to over 12,000 square kms.  Its another world.  A floating village with schools, a floating Catholic Church (courtesy of  an NGO with missionary zeal), peak hour traffic with boats, even a floating basketball court (another NGO project).  It is a different as you can possibly imagine.  The villagers earn a living from fishing, but we also see some scavenging for recyclable rubbish and timber, and lots of cute kids floating in buckets charging $1 for a photo. 

Tonle Sap lake panorama

Not cute - sad.  They should be at school not being "sold" for photos

It’s desperately poor and I can’t imagine how you’d live like this.  Sanitation is once again top of mind for me – a few floating houses have an outhouse stuck on the side – the waste goes straight into the lake and with a bit of luck doesn’t float straight into the fish farm.  Most people just hang over the side.  One little boy looks like a contortionist displaying exceptional agility as he pokes his bum over the side of his boat to do his business.  Much as I can’t contemplate living like this everyone is getting about their daily routine.  Mums drop kids off at school by boat, and the girls at school are having great fun with a skipping rope. 

Typical floating houses

Floating school

It feels a bit awkward cruising through their village watching the locals  - it is their home after all – not a tourist display.  I’m somewhat comforted by the fact that the boat drivers are all local, and the $15 per person fee for the boat ride ( way expensive by Cambodian standards), contributes to a development fund for the village.  On the way back to Siem Reap we walk through a boundless lotus field – its beautiful.  And the lotus seeds are quite tasty too – I can see why the Khmers like to snack on these.  During the after noon we have our own watery experience in “a Residence’s pool and I indulge in a lovely massage.  Craving a change from Asian food, dinner is at a French restaurant in town.  After a day like today you can’t help but contemplate the lottery of life, and I count my blessings that I wasn’t born to fishermen in a floating village in Siem Reap province.

Lotus field

Divine encounters

Sunday 10

Luon Vanna (Vanna – pronounced Wanna) is our local guide who is helping us explore the wonders to Angkor today.  He is a Khmer of Chinese heritage and turns out to be a wonderful companion – knowledgeable, friendly, and full of anecdotes about the Angkor king gods, and his own family! Angkor was the centre of the mighty Khmer empire, and testimony to its power there are around 200 ancient sites within the area..  At the height of its powers for Khmer empire included around 1m people; by comparison, at the same time London was home to just 50,000.

Angkor Wat is certainly the most famous of the buildings, but there is so much more to see. Constructed around 1200, Angkor Wat is the world’s largest religious building and a UNESCO World Heritage site.  This must be one of the worlds most photographed sites, yet it still takes your breath away when you see it first hand.  It is simply splendid to behold.  It’s hard to imagine how this perfection was built in 37 years.  Many locals believe there was divine intervention.  The carving is beautiful, with beguiling Aspasas everywhere you look.  Plenty of foreign aid has gone into restoration projects, French, Indian, Korean, Japanese US and Aussie conservators have all been involved.  Presently it’s the labour of the German Aspara Conservation Project. 

You approach Angkor Wat via a bridge crossing a perfectly symmetrical moat that once upon a time was home to crocodiles guarding the temple.  After the first gate, it’s a long walk down the avenue to the main temple. 2 libraries sit adjacent, they are designed to maximise the light enhancing the learned scholars enjoyment of their books.  The main temple if 3 stories high and a instantly recognisable site.  It has 5 columns which are familiar in Khmer symbolism.  Walking anti-clockwise, the intricate carvings adorn the 4 galleries and tell the stories of god kings, battles, heaven and hell.  Hindu and Buddhist icons both feature. Despite the crowds its an otherworldly experience

Next its on to Ta Prohm made famous by Lara Croft and “Tomb Raiders”.  This temple was devoured by the jungle prior to being reclaimed.  Many trees cannot be removed as they are now integral to the structure.  Sprung trees have sent their roots down through the buildings in search of soil.  Its mysterious and magical.  Amongst all the trees it also offers cool respite from the harsh sun, so we linger and take photos aplenty!  Here we see nature trying to reclaim what the ancient Khmers so expertly built.

Had a great chicken curry at Khmer Gardens Restaurant opposite one of the temples.  It’s a local place and the food is excellent and the lycee juice refreshing.

Fortified, its on to Angkor Thom which means “great city”. It’s built over an impressive 10 sq kms.  It must have been amazing to see these places when they were living cities.  There houses around the temples were wood, so nothing has survived.  Stone was reserved for the temples and the official buildings – not the homes of mere mortals.  The most famous building in Angkor Thom is the Bayon – a magnificent temple of Hindu and Buddhist construction.  Whilst Ganesh and Vishnu are prominent in the reliefs, the most striking feature is the 54 columns with the smiling faces of Buddhist gods.  .These dominate Bayon, like friendly centurions they look over the piles of rubble. 

Stories of everyday life – cooking the evening meal, a family quarrel, even searching a child’s head for lice -  are depicted in the beautifully carved reliefs.  At the end of this tour we are totally exhausted.  Courtesy of a bit of Orient Express luxury, mandarin oil infused cold towels and icy drinking water help humanise us once again.

The day ends with a fabulous meal at Amok, a Khmer restaurant in The Alley.  We both order tasting plates of different types of Amok   really lovely.