Tropcial paradise shared

Friday 15 – Rabbit Island

Its true that travelling gives one great self-insight.  Three things Rabbit Island reinforced about me to me:

1. I do like my creature comforts – I don’t consider running water a comfort – it’s a necessity,
2. I sometimes let romantic and idealistic notions cloud common sense, and
3. Once I’ve decided to do something its full steam ahead!

Frank and I spent a “memorable” 24 hours on Rabbit Island on Friday 15^th.  Caught up in fantasies or palm fringed beaches, fresh coconut juice and the sounds of ocean lulling me to sleep – I completely ignored self insights 1 & 2, and once there 3 kicked in to ensure I did not leave on the next long boat!!!

Koh Tonsay( I imagine lots of rice wine had been consumed prior to the Rabbit apparition – doesn’t look anything like a rabbit to me) is a small island 20 minutes by long boat off the Kep coast.  Its home to just 25 families and a little slice of tropical paradise.

Khmer New Year, however, is a notable exception.  Boat loads of day trippers were deposited onto the island, and every hut was full.  My fear had been partying backpackers, instead I got extended Khmer families intent on setting up their picnics in front of our hut.  To get the 10 meters from hut to waters edge you actually had to weave around picnic mats and kids swinging in hammocks.  At our guesthouse they weren’t just day trippers either – the partying continued well after dark.. Not peaceful.  Not happy Jann.

All my Cambodian relaxed and accepting disposition disappeared.  Our accommodation was one of the islands older huts – in this case established does not mean good – it means shabby and uncared for.  (Its called Yeah Meng – do not go there!)  My romantic notions did not expect 3 Stars, not even 1!  But I did not expect a ceiling height that would not allow you to stand upright, a dirty mattress on the floor, what was meant to be running water was a bucket load of sea water pumped in from the ocean, a generator behind the hut that made a racquet til 10.30pm, and the rubbish tip directly behind full of crab remnants and some very fishy odours!   Perhaps it was the fear of bed bugs and lice, perhaps it was the industrial deafness from the generator, or perhaps it was the putrid smell of rotting rubbish --- but this was not my most comfortable nights sleep!!  Despite the 34 degree temperature I sleep in a sarong and kaftan trying to ensure no skin touches the mattress.  In the end its just too hot so I strip off and take my chances.

Luxurious accomodation

Waiting for a boat to leave the Island!

Alas we are in one piece in the morning.  Somewhat tired, very dirty, but we lived to tell the story and I am proud that I did not bail out the afternoon prior on the last boat back to Kep.  Did contemplate the thought though!!  Self insight point 3 prevailed..

Notwithstanding – being there at the peak time for locals did afford some special insights.  Being invited to join in the dancing was terrific.  The Cambodians do this circular square dance sort of things around a table  - not much body and foot action – but lots of graceful hand motions go into this dance.  I copied the matriarch and did as best I could.  All good fun.  And then I was asked to dance by a young disabled Khmer man (he asked Franks permission of course) but then I felt completed to stay dancing!!   And Cambodian songs are long !!  I’ll be dining out on Rabbit Island stories fro some time!!!

On Saturday we drive back tio Phnom Penh and its deathly quite - everyone is at Kep and Rabbit Island!! Take care of domestics - loads of washing and a trip to Lucky Supermarket.    Anne-Mare & Tim and their kids are back from Australia now, so on Sunday we spend the day at their lovely house.  A beautiful relaxing day eating tropical fruit, enjoting a BBQ brunch, playing in the pool with their kids, attending to a sick bird, and drinking lots of wine of course with a real treat -- cheese Anne-Maree bought back from Oz!  Diary does not feature in the Khmer diet, so a ncie brie is a devoured greedily!  We collapse early after a big week.