Its hot today. Looks like that cold spell is over. I’m awake at so take a tuk tul down to the river for a power walk. There are loads of people out and about – definitely a sunrise to sunset town. I haven’t yet walked along the quay so its nice to check things out. Plenty of small boats are active on the river, and many people forage around the banks. After my walk find a café with a view for a croissant and a tea. Thanks you to the French for the delicious brad and croissants here.
Happy
On the way back to the hotel I attend to errands. A spot of supermarket shopping, a search for a better pre-paid deal (my credit is not lasting long – with the language difficulties its hard to figure it all out), sort out yoga classes, and book our flights to Siem Reap next week. I just choose the closest travel agent to home. Turns out he has a shop in Cabramatta and up until January this year was the President of the Khmer club in Australia
Sad
After lunch at home I head off to the Toul Sleng Genocide Museum
Thousands of people we detained, tortured and executed here during its 4 years of operation. Skulls and instruments of torture are chilling evidence of the horror. A sign asks you to remain silent and respect those who have passed. That’s not hard, you hardly feel like talking. Like the Nazis this despotic, insane regime meticulously chronicled their victims on film. In room after room, row after row, the inmatse stare out at you. I try to look at every photo and acknowledge their individual humanity. There was not reprise - women and children feature strongly Some expressions are defiant, some portray raw fear, and just a few actually smile. But by far the most common expression is of a quite resolve. Only 7 people survived S-21. They were lucky skilled tradesmen who were useful to the regime – a couple of artists who had to paint flattering portraits of Pol Pot, machinists and mechanics.
In another room there are photos of some of the perpetrators. Most are teenagers, illiterate and unskilled, who were plucked from poor villages by the Democratic Kampuchea forces. Apparently many now suffer mental health issues. Pol P{ot died in 1978, but the rest of his senior team are finally being prosecuted for crimes against humanity and genocide. Another room features their stories and talks about the trial. I can’t image what lawyer would want to represent them, but there is a swap of international lawyers on the defence teams.
Have a swim at home to clear my head.
Beauty amongst horror - frangipanis at the Genocide Museum
Admiration
My evenings entertainment is a fashion show at a boutique & restaurant called the Ebony Aspara. There’s a BBQ so I have some tofu and salad for dinner. I’m pleasantly surprised by the fashion. Nice designs and materials – but probably would not look so great out of the Phnom Penh
Disgust
I finish the evening with a mojito at the rooftop bar at the Foreign Correspondents Club. The breeze is lovely . A large group of men age 50+ arrive. They are wearing scarfs on their heads Yassar Arrafat style. A bigger worry are their matching t-shirts prominently stating “what goes on tour stays on tour”. The other slogan about suckers and swallowers is disgusting. I’m ashamed that these men are Australian. They are fat, unattractive slobs. Perhaps this is just a silly male bonding session – but in a place like Cambodia
The friendly tuk tuk driver on the ride home makes me smile again, as does Frank’ s goodnight message.
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